Level of DifficultyDifficult
Time to do repairMore than 2 hours
Age of ApplianceMore than 10 years
The hardes part was to remove the retaning nut (#34 on the diagram). There isn't enough grab on it and it is quite flimzy. Be prepared to butcher it if necessary. I resorted to wedging a screwdriver between the top flange of the nut and the spray arm and that gave me torque I needed to undo it. Luckily, the nut survived and could be reused.
Once the nut is off, everything else is pretty straightforward, just pay attention what goes after what and in what orientation (take notes if you must, however, I did not and got away with it). My machine has not been serviced in years and there was calcium deposits everywhere. If your machine is just as bad as mine, I strongly suggest to remove everything that can be removed and give it a nice vinegar bath or use other products designed for calcium removal (ask your wife what she is cleaning the bathroom with, it will most likely do). Bottom line, the cleaner the parts are, the better it will pump.
In my case, it was the calcium that eventually killed the impeller #14 and made it spin on the shaft (no pumping therefore).
Inspect all the parts for heat / wear damage so you put one order for everything you might need.
Secondly, the screw #12 that holds the impeller #14 on the shaft is a tiny screw and it is originally secured with a threadlocker. Make sure that the internal thread in the shaft and the screw are absolutely dry before applying loctite.
Thirdly, there is a plastic ball that sits in the cavity in one of the disk-like part (not shown on the diagram). Do not loose it and make sure it is put back.
That's pretty much it. Once properly cleaned and repaired, the machine washed like brand new. Pretty good for less than $50 investment in parts and a week downtime. . .