Helpful Information

How To Replace a Washer Coupler ( Whirlpool or Maytag)

PartSelect — Thu, 23 Oct 2008 18:12:32 GMT

Tools:

Putty knife
1/4 inch nut driver or socket
Phillips screwdriver
Flat tip screwdriver
Hammer and piece of pipe
Container for screws

Before attempting any appliance repair, be certain you have unplugged the appliance and completely disconnected it from any power source.

To begin you must remove the control panel. For some Whirlpool models, you will need to remove two screws from the back of the unit. If there are no screws on the upper back part of the unit, then you will have to remove the end caps to the control panel to expose the screws. For Maytag models, slide a putty knife under the control panel on the extreme left (so you do not damage the lid switch) and pop it up. Repeat this on the far right. Using a flat tip screwdriver, pop out the brass springs holding the control panel to the cabinet and the control panel should be released from the unit

and you can flip it up away from you. and the control panel should be released from the unit and you can flip it up away from you. Disconnect the lid switch and make sure not to let it fall in between the dryer and the control panel.

With the lid open and your hands on the inside, grasp the cabinet and tilt it forward and lift upward at the same time to release it. Place it out of the way. The pump and motor will be located at the bottom on the front.

You will need to start by releasing the two clips holding the pump to the motor and swinging it out of the way. You don’t need to remove any of the hoses to do this. Next, disconnect the wiring harness located on the right side of the motor and remove the two brackets and screws holding the motor in place. Now, you should be able to pull out the motor and see the coupler. Part of the coupler will be on the motor

and part of it will be still on the transmission that is now exposed. Remove the old coupler and start by replacing the half on the transmission shaft. You may need a hammer and a piece of pipe to secure this piece. Replace the rest of the coupler on the motor and put the motor back on. Replace the motor brackets and screws and reconnect the wiring harness. Next, replace the pump and pump brackets.

Now you are ready to place the cabinet back on. Make sure the small holes on the cabinet bottom line up with the tabs. Finally, flip the control panel back over and replace spring clips and screws if necessary.

How To Replace a Dryer Belt on Whirlpool Models

PartSelect — Thu, 23 Oct 2008 18:09:25 GMT

Tools:

5/16th nut driver or socket
Phillips screwdriver
Putty knife
Container for screws

Before beginning any appliance repair, it is extremely important to make sure the appliance you are repairing is unplugged and is completely disconnected from power.

The first step in replacing a dryer belt is to slide out the lint filter. This will reveal two screws, which need to be removed in order to get the top of the dryer off. Next, take a putty knife and slide it in to the small opening between the top of the dryer and the front of the dryer. Using the knife, you can pop the top of the dryer off. Do this on the left and the right and flip the top of the dryer out of the way. It’s a good idea to prop the top against something so it doesn’t strain the brackets.

Now that the inside of the dryer is exposed, you have access to the two screws holding the front in place. Using the 5/16th driver, remove the screws on the upper inside right and left corners. This will release the front of the dryer and you can pull out and up to detach it from the rest of the dryer and swing it to the side, out of the way. You may have to disconnect the lid switch if the wires aren’t long enough to allow this.

With the dryer fully exposed now, you can pull off the old belt. Since the inside of a dryer can accumulate a lot of dirt, it’s a good idea to vacuum it out while you have it apart. Simply pull out the drum, vacuum, and replace.

To put on the new belt, you may need another person to help you hold up the drum. It sags down over the area you need to work with and an extra hand can make the next part easier. Start by placing the belt over the entire drum. Next, you will have to go underneath the drum where the idler pulley and motor is located. The belt needs to be placed through the idler pulley and then attached to the motor. The picture shown is with the drum removed so it’s easier to see how the belt is attached. If this is done

properly, the idler pulley should apply tension to the belt.

After the belt has been secured, you should check the rear felt that is on the back end of the drum to make sure it has not been folded under. If it has, use a screwdriver to pop it out while spinning the dryer drum. Finish by replacing the front of the dryer, making sure the tabs on the bottom of the dryer are lined up with the small holes on the front. Connect the lid switch if necessary and replace screws from the inside top corners and lint trap. Finally, replace your lint trap and you’re finished.

Kelvinator Appliance Fault Codes

PartSelect — Tue, 16 Sep 2008 15:41:32 GMT

Attention: We do not offer any further information on appliance fault codes. If you require extra assistance, please contact an appliance repair technician.

Kelvinator Oven/Range/Stove Fault Codes
Note: Depending upon the brand of appliance, there can be many different names for the 'clock' component. Electronic Range Control, ERC, Electronic Oven Control, EOC, control board, and clock all refer to the same part.

F0 - Control Board Failure - Replace control board (clock).
F1 - Control Board Failter - Replace control board (clock.)
F2 - Oven Temperature Too Hoot - Check and replace oven temperature sensor.
F3 - Open Oven Temperature Sensor(RTD) - Check the connection between the oven control and oven sensor, as well as the sensor harness. If wiring is ok, replace oven temperature sensor (RTD).
F4 - Shorted Oven Temperature Sensor (RTC) - Check the connection between the oven control and oven sensor, as well as the sensor harness. If wiring is ok, replace oven temperature sensor (RTD).
F5 - Control Board Failure - Replace control board (clock).
F6 - Control Board Failure - Replace control board (clock).
F8 - Oven Door Lock Failure - Check the door lock relay, switches, and wiring.

Jenn-Air Appliance Fault Codes

PartSelect — Tue, 16 Sep 2008 15:30:50 GMT

Attention: We do not offer any further information on appliance fault codes. If you require extra assistance, please contact an appliance repair technician.

Jenn Air Oven/Range/Stove Fault Codes
Note: Depending upon the brand of appliance, there can be many different names for the 'clock' component. Electronic Range Control, ERC, Electronic Oven Control, EOC, control board, and clock all refer to the same part.

F0 - Function Key Stuck - Replace touch pad, or touch pad and control board (clock) if one assembly.
F1 - Defective Touch Pad or Control Board - Replace touch pad, control board (clock), or both if one assembly. Refer to F1 Test for more information.
F2 - Oven Temperature Too Hot - Depending upon model, replace relay (if present) or oven temperature sensor. Make sure to check sensor harness.
F3 / F4 - Shorted or Open Oven Temperature Sensor (RTD) - Shorted or Open Oven Temperature (RTD) - Check the connection between the oven control and oven sensor, as well as the sensor harness. If wiring is ok, replace oven temperature sensor (RTD).
F5 - Watchdog and Hardware Conflict - Replace control board (clock).
F7 - Function Key Shorted or Stuck - Replace touch pad, or touch pad and control board (clock) if one assembly.
F8 - Analog / Digital Problem - Replace control board (clock).
F9 - Door Latch - Check door latch and wiring.

Jenn-Air 'Newer Style' Oven/Range/Stove Fault Codes
Note: Depending upon the brand of appliance, there can be many different names for the 'clock' component. Electronic Range Control, ERC, Electronic Oven Control, EOC, control board, and clock all refer to the same part.

F1 - Power to Element Relay Energized During Time of Day Display - Check wiring harness and power relay boards for shortages. Replace if defective. Note: For double ovens, replace second oven board.
F2 - Oven Temperature Sensed over 600F by Control in Time of Day Mode, Bake Mode, or Over 900F During Clean Mode - Ohm test the oven temperature sensor. Replace if defective. If ok, replace power relay board.
F3 - Cooling Fan On With No Oven Function Selected - Check oven temperature sensor or wire harness to oven temperature sensor. Replace if defective.
F4 - Shorted Oven Temperature Sensor - Check oven temperature sensor or wire harness to oven temperature sensor. Replace if defective.
F5 - Power to Element Relays Disabled in Cook Mode - Check oven temperature sensor and wire harness. Also check contact on power relay board.
F7 - Shorted Key Sensed For 32 Seconds - Check control board (clock) and touch pad. Replace if defective.
F8 - Shorted Meat Probe Alarm - This will usually occur if probe is sensing a temperature over 250F. Check probe jack and harness for defects.
F9 - Door Lock Safety Circuit On Power Relay Board Sensed - Replace power relay board.
FF - Invalid Temperature Reading On Power Relay Board - Check oven temperature sensor and wire harness. If ok, replace power relay board.
F - Communication Error Between Boards - Check wire harness for continuity. If ok, replace power relay board.
FC - Communication Error Between Boards - Check wiring harness and power relay board. Replace if defective.
FR - Second Oven Error Sensed - Check oven temperature sensor and wire harness. If ok, replace second board.

Hotpoint Appliance Fault Codes

PartSelect — Tue, 16 Sep 2008 15:28:40 GMT

Attention: We do not offer any further information on appliance fault codes. If you require extra assistance, please contact an appliance repair technician.

Hotpoint Oven/Range/Stove Fault Codes
Note: Depending upon the brand of appliance, there can be many different names for the 'clock' component. Electronic Range Control, ERC, Electronic Oven Control, EOC, control board, and clock all refer to the same part.

F0 - Function Key Stuck - Replace touch pad, or touch pad and control board (clock) if one assembly. Refer to Refer to F1 Test for more information.
F1 - Function Key Stuck - Replace touch pad, or touch pad and control board (clock) if one assembly. Refer to Refer to F1 Test for more information.
F2 (During Bake) - Oven Control Senses Oven Temperature Above 615F-630F - If temperature has exceeded 615F-630F, check for welded contacts on bake and broil relays. If present, replace control board (clock). If temperature has NOT exceeded 615F-630F, check sensor, sensor harness, and the sensor harness connection at sensor and oven control. If found defective, replace sensor. Also check for any causes of high resistance in the oven temperature sensor circuit.
F2 (During Clean) - Oven Control Senses Oven Temperature Above 915F-930F - If temperature has exceeded 915F-930F, check for welded contacts on the bake and broil relays. If present, replace control board (clock). If temperature has NOT exceeded 915F-930F, check sensor, sensor harness, and the sensor harness connection at sensor and oven control. If found defective, replace sensor. Also check for any causes of high resistance in the oven temperature sensor circuit.
F3 / F4 - Open or Shorted Oven Temperature Sensor (RTD) - Check sensor harness and connection between oven sensor and oven control. If wiring is ok, replace control board (clock).
F7 - Defective Touch Pad or Control Board - Replace touch pad, control board (clock), or both if one assembly. Refer to F1 Test for more information.
F9 - Door Lock Switch - Check door lock switches and wiring.

Hardwick Appliance Fault Codes

PartSelect — Tue, 16 Sep 2008 15:27:37 GMT

Attention: We do not offer any further information on appliance fault codes. If you require extra assistance, please contact an appliance repair technician.

Hardwick Oven/Range/Stove Fault Codes
Note: Depending upon the brand of appliance, there can be many different names for the 'clock' component. Electronic Range Control, ERC, Electronic Oven Control, EOC, control board, and clock all refer to the same part.

F1 - Defective Touch Pad or Control Board (clock) - Replace touch pad or control board (clock). Refer to F1 Test for more information.
F1 - Watchdog on Board - Replace touch pad or control board (clock). Refer to F1 Test for more information.
F2 - Oven Temperature Too Hot - Replace relay board (if present) or oven temperature sensor.
F3 / F4 - Open or Shorted Oven Temperature Sensor - Replace oven temperature sensor.
F5 - Hardware and Watchdog Circuits Disagree - Replace control board (clock).
F6 - Missing AC Signal - Check for proper voltage.
F7 - Function Key Shorted or Stuck - Replace touch pad, or touch pad and control board (clock) if all one assembly. Try to 'un-stick' button.
F8 - Analog / Digital Supervisory - Replace control board (clock).
F9 - Door Latch Supervisory - Check door lock circuit or replace control board (clock) assembly.
F0 - Function Key Stuck - Replace touch pad, or touch pad and control board (clock) is one assembly.

Gibson Appliance Fault Codes

PartSelect — Tue, 16 Sep 2008 15:26:44 GMT

Attention: We do not offer any further information on appliance fault codes. If you require extra assistance, please contact an appliance repair technician.

Gibson Oven/Range/Stove Fault Codes
Note: Depending upon the brand of appliance, there can be many different names for the 'clock' component. Electronic Range Control, ERC, Electronic Oven Control, EOC, control board, and clock all refer to the same part.

F0 - Oven Control Failure - Replace control board (clock).
F1 - Oven Control Failure - Replace control board (clock).
F2 - Oven Temperature Too Hot - Check and replace oven temperature sensor (RTD).
F3 - Open Oven Temperature Sensor (RTD) - Check the connection between the oven control and oven sensor, as well as the sensor harness. If wiring is ok, replace oven temperature sensor (RTD).
F4 - Shorted Oven Temperature Sensor (RTD) - Check the connection between the oven control and oven sensor, as well as the sensor harness. If wiring is ok, replace oven temperature sensor (RTD).
F5 - Oven Control Failure - Replace control board (clock).
F6 - Oven Control Failure - Replace control board (clock).
F8 - Oven Door Lock Failure - Check door lock switches and wiring.

GE Appliance Fault Codes

PartSelect — Tue, 16 Sep 2008 15:24:43 GMT

Attention: We do not offer any further information on appliance fault codes. If you require extra assistance, please contact an appliance repair technician.

GE Dishwasher Fault Codes - Late 1990's Forward

PF - Power Failure - Select 'cancel' to clear code. If error persists, check electrical connections to dishwasher and electronic control (control board). Replace if defective.
C1 - Partially Blocked Drain - This error will occur when dishwasher was unable to pump out water in less than 95 seconds. Check drain line for debris and blockage. If clear, check for a restricted drain valve in the pump.
C2 - Drain Line Totally Blocked - This error will occur when dishwasher is unable to pump out water within the maximum time of 405 seconds. Check drain line and drain valve in pump for debris and blockage. Note: If a new garbage disposal has been installed, remove knock out plug for dishwasher drain.
C3 - Will Not Drain - This occurs when dishwasher is not able to switch to he drain mode. Call for in home service.
C4 - Water Over-Fill Fault - This error usually indicates bad water inlet valve. Check for high water pressure to unit.
C5 - Low Water Fill - This error usually indicates bad water inlet valve. Check for low water pressure to unit.
C6 - Water Temperature Too Low (After 20 Minute Extension) - Check heating element and thermostat for continuity.
C7 - Temperature Sensor Bad - Replace temperature sensor (remove door to access panel, sensor should be located inside the door).
C8 - Detergent Cup Blocked - Check for debris around detergent cup. Keep objects clear of cup when loading dishwasher.

GE Microwave Fault Codes
Note: Depending upon the brand of appliance, there can be many different names for the 'clock' component. Electronic Range Control, ERC, Electronic Oven Control, EOC, control board, and clock all refer to the same part.

F1 - Oven Cavity Thermistor Open - Check oven thermistor for continuity and replace if zero or infinite ohms.
F2 - oven Cavity Thermistor Closed - Check oven thermistor for continuity and replace if zero or infinite ohms.
F3 - Touch Pad Shorted - Replace touch pad (key panel).
F4 / F5 - Humidity Sensor Open of Shorted - Replace humidity sensor.
F6 - Shorted Temperature Probe - Replace temperature probe.

GE Oven/Range/Stove Fault Codes
Note: Depending upon the brand of appliance, there can be many different names for the 'clock' component. Electronic Range Control, ERC, Electronic Oven Control, EOC, control board, and clock all refer to the same part.

F0 - Function Key Stuck - Replace touch pad or touch pad and control board if one assembly. Refer to F1 Test for more information.
F1 - Function Key Stuck - Replace touch pad or touch pad and control board if one assembly. Refer to F1 Test for more information.
F2 (During Bake) - Oven Control Senses Oven Temperature above 615F-630F - If temperature has exceeded 615F-630F, check for welded contacts on bake and broil relays. If present, replace control board (clock). If temperature has NOT exceeded 615F-630F, check sensor, sensor harness, and the sensor harness connection at sensor and oven control. If found defective, replace sensor. Also check for any causes of high resistance in the oven temperature sensor circuit.
F2 (During Clean) - Oven Control Senses Oven Temperature Above 915F-930F - If temperature has exceeded 915F-930F, check for welded contacts on the bake and broil relays. If present, replace control board (clock). If temperature has NOT exceeded 915F-930F, check sensor, sensor harness, and the sensor harness connection at sensor and oven control. If found defective, replace sensor. Also check for any causes of high resistance in the oven temperature sensor circuit.
F3 / F4 - Open or Shorted Oven Temperature Sensor (RTD) - Check sensor harness and connection between oven sensor and oven control. If wiring is ok, replace control board (clock).
F5 - Loss of Relay Drive Circuit - If error cannot be cancelled by selecting the 'cancel' function, the control board (clock) will need to be replaced.
F8 - Shorted Meat Probe - This error indicates a problem with either the probe, receptacle, or probe circuit. Check the probe for pinched wires and make sure there is no condensation or contamination on receptacle.
F9 - Door Lock Switch - Check door lock switches and wiring.
FC - Door Lock Circuit - Check wiring and test switches. Most common cause of this error is pinched wires between the control and the door lock switches on motorized lock circuits.
FD - Short Meat Probe - This error indicates a problem with either the probe, receptacle, or probe circuit. Check the probe for pinched wires and make sure there is no condensation or contamination on receptacle. If ok, replace probe.
FF - Loss of Door Motor Safety Switch - Replace control board (clock).
FFF - EEPROM Checksum Error - Replace control board (clock).

GE WSL Model Washing Machine Fault Codes

IE - Water Level Sensor Error - Press 'Power' button and check wiring harness, pressure sensor switch, and circuit board for defects. Replace faulty part.
7E - Water Supply Error - Press 'Power' button and check wiring harness, water valve, pressure sensor switch, and circuit board for defects. Replace faulty part.
E - Drain Pump Error - Press 'Power' button and check wiring harness, pump motor, and circuit board for defects. Replace faulty part.
dE - Lid Open Error - Close lid. If error persists, check wiring harness, lid switch, unbalance switch, and circuit board for defects. Replace faulty part.
UE - Unbalance Switch Error - Open lid and re-balance laundry manually. If error persists, check wiring harness, unbalance switch, and circuit board for defects. Replace faulty part.
OE - Water Overflow Error - Turn off water supply to washer and disconnect power and unplug unit. Check wiring harness, water inlet water valve, pressure sensor switch, and circuit board for defects. Replace if faulty.

Frigidaire Appliance Fault Codes

PartSelect — Tue, 16 Sep 2008 15:18:33 GMT

Attention: We do not offer any further information on appliance fault codes. If you require extra assistance, please contact an appliance repair technician.

Frigidaire Frontload Washer Fault Codes
Note: Some Frigidaire washer models have digital readout displays, and some models do not.

In the models that DO have a digital readout display the failure codes will appear in the display as an 'E' followed by two numbers, a number and a letter, or two letters. The control will beep and the Door Lock, Wash, Rinse, Final Spin, and Control indicator lights will flash.

In the models that DO NOT have a digital readout display the failure code is signaled by the five indicator lights flashing Door Lock, Wash, Rinse, Final Spin, and Control. These five lights will flash the number of times for the first number after the 'E'. The Start indicator light will also flash the number of times for the second number after the 'E'.
To stop the beeping and flashing these errors can cause, select the Pause/Cancel button.
Example - If the five indicator lights flash twice (2) and the start indicator light flashes four (4) times, the error code would be E24.

Note: If the five indicator lights (Door Lock, Wash, Rinse, Final Spin, and Control) flash more than nine times, it is to indicate a letter, A = 10, B = 11, C = 12, D = 13, E = 14, F = 15. Ex. - If the five indicator lights flash 15 times (F) and the start indicator flashes once, the error code would be F1.

To Recall An Error Code
Wake the machine by pressing any button and wait five seconds. Press and hold the Start AND Pause/Cancel buttons simultaneously and all LED's should go blank. After a few seconds, the control will signal the stored code using beeps and lights. As long as the Start and Pause/Cancel buttons are pressed, this error will continue to be displayed.
Note: On a small number of washers with serial numbers beginning with the prefix XC4, this recall method may not work. If it does not, follow all steps but instead press and hold the Options button with the Pause/Cancel button.

E11 - Fill time too long.
E13 - Water leak in tub, or air leak in air bell.
E14 - Reed switch.
E21 - Water not pumping out fast enough.
E23 - Drain pump relay on control board failed.
E24 - Drain pump relay on control board failed.
E31 - Pressure sensor not communicating with control board (digital readout models only).
E35 - Pressure sensor indicates water overfill (digital readout models only).
E41 - Control board indicates door switch is open.
E42 - Door remains locked after cycle is completed.
E43 - Control board problem.
E44 - Control board problem.
E45 - Control board problem.
E46 - Control board problem.
E47 - Control board is sensing the door PTC circuit is open during spin.
E48 - Control board is sensing the door PTC circuit is closed.
E52 - Bad signal from tacho generator.
E55 - Motor overheating.
E56 - High motor current.
E57 - High current on inverter.
E58 - High current on motor phase.
E59 - No tacho signal for 3 seconds.
E5A - High temperature on heat sink.
E5B - High temperature on heat sink.
E5C - High temperature on heat sink.
E5D - Communication problem.
E5E - Communication problem.
E5F - Communication problem.
E67 - Input voltage on microprocessor incorrect.
E75 - Water temperature sensor circuit (digital readout models only).
E76 - NTC temperature for the cold water valve over the limits (digital readout models only).
E95 - Communication error.
EB1 - Incoming power frequency out of limits.
EB2 - incoming line voltage above 130 VAC.
EB3 - Incoming line voltage below 90 VAC.
EF1 - Clogged drain pump.
EF2 - Too much soap.

Frigidaire Oven/Range/Stove Fault Codes
Note: Depending upon the brand of appliance, there can be many different names for the 'clock' component. Electronic Range Control, ERC, Electronic Oven Control, EOC, control board, and clock all refer to the same part.

F0 - Board Failure - Replace oven control board.
F1 - Board Failure - Replace oven control board.
F2 - Oven Temperature Too Hot - Check and replace oven temperature sensor (RTD).
F3 - Open Oven Temperature Sensor (RTD) - Check the connection between the oven control and oven sensor, as well as the sensor harness. If wiring is ok, replace oven temperature sensor (RTD).
F4 - Shorted Oven Temperature Sensor (RTD) - Check the connection between the oven control and oven sensor, as well as the sensor harness. If wiring is ok, replace oven temperature sensor (RTD).
F5 - Electronic Oven Control Failure - Replace oven control board.
F6 - Electronic Oven Control Failure - Replace oven control board.
F8 - Oven Door Lock Failure - Check door lock switches and wiring.

Frigidaire Diagnostic Test

To Start The Test: On digital readout models, turn the program knob to the start (Drain/Spin) position. For non-digital readout models, turn the program knob the start (Touch Up) position. (Note: If the non-digital model has a knob that will allow a turn of 360 degrees, turn the program knob to start (Drain/Spin) position.) Select Pause/Cancel to turn off LED's. Within 5 seconds, press and hold the Option and Pause/Cancel buttons until the LED's start sequentially chasing, then release buttons.

1. All the LED's will sequentially light. Pressing a button below a light cluster will light all the LED's in that cluster at one time to confirm functionality.
2. Turn the program knock 1 click clockwise from the start position. The hot water solenoid will activate and hot water should enter through the detergent compartment.
3. Turn the program knob 2 clicks from the start position. The bleach water solenoid will activate and cold water should enter through the bleach compartment.
4. Turn the program knob 3 clicks from the start position. The bleach and the wash water solenoids will activate and the cold water should enter through the softener compartment.
5. Turn the program knob 4 clicks from the start position. The door lock solenoid will activate.
6. Turn the program knob 5clicks from the start position. The door lock solenoid will deactivate and the loading door can be opened.
7. Turn the program knob 6 clicks from the start position. The washer will fill and tumble.
8. Turn the program knob 7 clicks from the start position. The washer will fill and spin (leakage test).
9. Turn the program knob 8 clicks from the start position. The drain pump and door lock solenoid will activated and the washer will operate in high spin. SAFETY WARNING: If power is removed during this test, the door can be opened. To prevent injury, DO NOT put your hands inside when tub is rotating.
10. Turn the program knob 9 clicks from the start position. The control will signal the last error code.

Exiting Diagnostic Test
1. Unplug the power cord, wait 5-8 seconds, the reconnect power cord, OR
2. Turn the program knock clockwise 2 or 3 clicks after the start position. Press Options and Pause/Cancel buttons together for a few seconds until the wash cycle LED's appear.
If a situation arises where you cannot exit the Diagnostic mode as described above and the bank of 5 LED's on the right end remain ON regardless of program knob position, a combination of pushed buttons may have caused the control to enter a special factory test mode. Disconnect power to reset the control to return washer to normal operation.

Estate Appliance Fault Codes

PartSelect — Tue, 16 Sep 2008 15:13:59 GMT

Attention: We do not offer any further information on appliance fault codes. If you require extra assistance, please contact an appliance repair technician.

Estate Oven/Range/Stove Fault Codes
Note: Depending upon the brand of appliance, there can be many different names for the 'clock' component. Electronic Range Control, ERC, Electronic Oven Control, EOC, control board, and clock all refer to the same part.

F0 - Board Failure - Replace control board (clock).
F1 - Board Failure - Replace control board (clock)
F2 - Oven Temperature Is Too High - Check for welded contacts on bake and broil relays. If present, replace control board (clock). For SELF CLEAN models, check door lock operation. Check sensor, sensor harness, and the sensor harness connection at sensor and oven control. Also check for any causes of high resistance in the oven temperature sensor circuit. Remember: The oven control board (clock) measures resistance of sensor circuit, not actual oven temperature.
F3 - Oven Temperature Sensor (RTD) Open - Replace oven temperature sensor (RTD).
F4 - Oven Temperature Sensor Open (RTD) - Replace oven temperature sensor (RTD).
F5 - Board Failure - Replace control board (clock).
F7 - Function Key Stuck - Replace control board (clock).
F8 - Board Failure - Replace control board (clock).
F9 - Oven Door Lock Failure - Check door lock switches and wiring.