Parts That Fix General Electric Refrigerator PSS26SGPASS Ice maker not making ice
Ice maker not making ice is a commonly reported symptom for the PSS26SGPASS General Electric Refrigerator, and we have put together a full guide on how to fix this. This advice is based on feedback from people who own this exact appliance. We have listed the most common parts for your PSS26SGPASS General Electric Refrigerator that will fix Ice maker not making ice. We have included repair instructions, and helpful step-by-step video tutorials. If you are experiencing this issue, not to worry, DIYers just like you have fixed this, and shared their experience to help you!
This 10 by 5 inch ice maker (Electromechanical Icemaker Kit, Ice Maker Assembly) produces ice. This particular model will produce seven crescent shaped cubes every cycle. It is constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in black/white. This kit includes a set of installation instructions, a 4-pin round plug-in connector, 6 post plug-in connectors, tube and fill cup. The ideal temperature of a freezer is zero degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature in your freezer is at an appropriate level yet ice is still not being made, it could be an issue with the water inlet valve or your ice maker assembly. If you determine it is the ice maker, this is the replacement you need. The ice maker can break from normal wear and accidental damage. Ice makers will need to be replaced every 3-10 years depending on the frequency of usage and water quality. This model is mounted on the freezer wall.
This water inlet valve (Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve Assembly) supplies water to the ice maker and the water dispenser in your refrigerator. It is located at the back of the fridge, beneath the bottom panel. It is connected directly to 2 water supplies, a wiring harness, and your inlet water tube. This part is located at the back of the fridge, beneath the bottom panel. It is connected directly to 2 water supplies, a wiring harness, and your inlet water tube. Minerals and sediments can build up over time and cause a blockage in your inlet valve. They can also cause the valve to stick open, leading to an overflow of water. If this part is malfunctioning, water flow to your appliance could be compromised. Check for small ice cubes or a lack of ice cubes/water, as this is an obvious sign the part is damaged. The water inlet valve must be replaced if the solenoids no longer have continuity or the valve has internal blockage. Test your water inlet valve with a multimeter. You can test both the water dispenser side and the ice maker side. The part measures approximately 3 inches long and 2.75 inches wide and is constructed of plastic and metal. This replacement part features 1 dual inlet water valve with quick connections. It also has 1/4 and 5/16 John Guest fittings for the outlet lines and a 1/4 compression fitting for the inlet line.
This OEM ice and water filter fits side-by-side and bottom-freezer GE models. The most common reason you would need to change this part is if you have never updated your model and it is no longer filtering your water. This also may lead to your refrigerator not dispensing water or ice properly. Manufacturers recommend you change your filter every six months to ensure it properly filters impurities. Depending on the model, a red light might also indicate that the filter is due for a replacement. Note: As per the manufacturer, this is an updated water filter. If you have never installed the updated part or your old model was made by Culligan, you may need the adapter to install the filter. See related parts. This filter is located inside the refrigerators upper right corner. It is common for water to drip from the dispenser when being changed so place a cloth underneath before you begin this repair. To remove the filter, turn it to the left until it releases without pulling down. Fill the new filter with tap water to prepare it. Position the new filter into the holder taking note of the arrows. The arrow on the front should be facing out. Gently push up on the filter and turn it to the right to secure it. Do not over-tighten. To release air in the system run 1-1/2 gallons of water through it. If your model has a reset button, press and hold this for a few seconds to reset it.
This part is found at the end of the auger in the ice container - replace this part when the icemaker doesn't dispense ice.
This part strips the ice from the icemaker mold during the ejection cycle. Used on rear mount icemakers.
This part holds the ice once it's released from the icemaker. When activated, the auger rotates and pushes ice out of the bin through the chute to the user.
This electronic board (Main Control Board Assembly, Control Board, Motherboard) controls the temperature and defrost functions of the unit. This control board is located on the back of the refrigerator, and measures 8 inches by 5 inches. It’s constructed of metal and plastic, and comes in green. This kit includes one main control board with built in defrost controls. If broken due to electrical surges or normal use, your fridge may experience temperatures that are too warm or too cold, or inconsistent defrost cycles. If this happens, the part should be replaced.
This is a replacement fill tube and grommet assembly for your refrigerator. This part acts your water line to your ice maker. If you’re noticing water in the back of the refrigerator or any kind of leak, or if your ice bucket isn’t filling up with as much ice, you may need to change out the fill tube and grommet assembly. When you purchase this part, you get the water line, as well as the fill tube and grommet. This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
This part is a possible option when ice door won't open or shut properly or when water is not dispensing.
This part is a replacement filter bypass cap for your refrigerator. If you intend to use an external water filtration system for your refrigerator, the bypass cap will allow you to do so. To use a filter bypass cap, simply screw it in where you would normally screw in the regular water filter. If you have a bypass system installed and your ice maker doesn’t make ice, your water dispenser doesn’t make water, or if there is water dripping inside your refrigerator, you may need to replace the bypass filter cap. This part is made of white plastic and is sold individually.
This sensor (Temperature Sensor, Thermistor, Refrigerator Temperature Sensor) sends the temperature reading of the compartment to the control board. If you notice your refrigerator is too warm, too cold, or not defrosting properly, then there may be a problem with your sensor. The temperature sensor can break from material fatigue or through normal use, and should be replaced. It is attached to the evaporator and control housing in your appliance. It measures approximately 1.25 inches long with 18 inch wire leads, and is constructed out of plastic. This part comes in white, beige. It includes the sensor, with wire leads.
This defrost termination thermostat (Defrost Limiter Thermostat, High Limit Thermostat, Refrigerator Defrost Bi-Metal Thermostat) acts as a safety device to stop the evaporator coil from overheating, by turning off the defrost heater at the end of the defrost cycle. This part attaches to the tubing of the evaporator coil in the freezer. A faulty defrost termination thermostat may result in the defrost heater never heating and a solid frost buildup on the evaporator coil, which results in too warm temperatures. The thermostat contacts are normally closed and have continuity until it reaches 140 degrees. If this high limit thermostat is open at room temperature or colder, it is defective. This limit thermostat has an attached mounting clip and comes with pink and amber wire leads. The thermostat is 1 inch in diameter and 1/2 inch thick, the 2 wire leads are 10 inches long.
This door recess spring or dispenser lever spring in your refrigerator is used to return the ice door to the closed position or the dispenser lever to the home position once released. You will find the spring in the water dispenser assembly, behind the main control panel. If the dispenser lever is malfunctioning or the dispenser ice door is not closing, you may need to replace this door recess spring.
This “Dispenser Door Assembly” (Door Recess Assembly, Ice Door Assembly, Dispenser Door, Refrigerator Dispenser Ice Chute Door Kit, Dispenser Door Flap, Ice Chute Door, Flapper) keeps the room air from infiltrating the freezer. Once the lever is pressed, the door flap opens and allows the ice to dispense into your container. If your door flapper is broken, it could allow outside air to enter the freezer and alter the inside temperature. You may notice frost buildup surrounding the dispenser area. The door flap can disconnect from the dispenser lever, or the tabs that hold it in place may break. Frequent use may distort the sealing face and cause air leaks and frost buildup. This part mounts in the ice dispenser, and measures approximately 3.25 inches in diameter. It is constructed of plastic and rubber, and comes in white/black. This part is sold individually.
Coarse thread
The door recess crank for your refrigerator is located inside the water dispenser assembly. To access this part, you will need to take apart the dispenser assembly. To do this, you will need a putty knife and a Phillips screwdriver. If your dispenser door will not close properly, or ice is not dispensing properly, you may have a damaged door recess crank. This part is made of white plastic and is sold individually.
The ice maker fill cup directs the water into the ice maker cube mold during the fill cycle.
Quick connector for plastic water line - 5/16" to 5/16"
This kit includes 1 cube solenoid, 1 armature, 2 tooth washers and 2 1/4 hex head screws.