Parts That Fix Maytag Washer A712 Leaking
Leaking is a commonly reported symptom for the A712 Maytag Washer, and we have put together a full guide on how to fix this. This advice is based on feedback from people who own this exact appliance. We have listed the most common parts for your A712 Maytag Washer that will fix Leaking. We have included repair instructions, and helpful step-by-step video tutorials. If you are experiencing this issue, not to worry, DIYers just like you have fixed this, and shared their experience to help you!
This part is commonly known to cause a leak at the top left corner of the outer tub. It fits over the injector nozzle. It is black in color and measures approximately 2 inches in length. To access this part, you will need to remove the front panel of your washer. There will be 2 screws holding it in place. Once these have been removed, the top will pivot to open, which will give you access to the injector assembly. This is an OEM part that comes right from the manufacturer and is sold individually.
Replacing your Maytag Washer Rubber Injector Valve
Customer Repair Stories
While filling the tub, water was also spraing onto the floor under the washer.
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Jody from Westborough, MA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
water leaking out the bottom of the washer
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frank from mount laurel, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
This kit comes with a hub assembly, agitator seal, and spanner nut. If your washer leaks once it is full (with or without clothes in it) or leaks during agitation, then you should replace the seal. This part will also fix symptoms such as loud noises or the washer not agitating. The seal may become damaged or deteriorate over time and will need to be replaced. The mounting stem goes between the two tubs and seals the water into the tubs. When the water leaks, it goes into the bearing, which will cause it to also go bad, which is why you will likely change these at the same time.
Replacing your Maytag Washer Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit
Customer Repair Stories
leaked water when agitating in wash cycle
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Jonathan from Lavonia, GA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
water leaking from around center shaft below fixed tub
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douglas from bonita springs, FL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
The plastic injector nozzle is used in washers and dryers. It is 3 inches long and is white in color. If your washer is leaking water, replacing the nozzle could solve your problem. For this repair project, you will need a 1/4 nut driver, 3/8 socket with extension, and a stubby Phillips screwdriver. To begin the repair, first remove the front panel by removing screws from the bottom end of both sides. Next, locate the two bolts in the interior of front panel and remove both. Pull bleach dispenser hose off before removing the top cover of washer. Remove clamp that holds the hose to the valve assembly to access the nozzle inside rubber valve and replace with new nozzle. Refer to the instructions provided by the manufacturer for further guidance.
Replacing your Maytag Washer Plastic Injector Nozzle
Customer Repair Stories
Water leaking out of the top of the machine behind the control panel when in the fill cycle
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Steven from Shawnee, KS
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
This kit contains a top mounting style injector sleeve. It comes with an air gap as well. This part helps stop the contaminated water from being drawn back into the main water line.
Replacing your Maytag Washer Injector Hose with Air Gap
Customer Repair Stories
Water leaking from bottom of machine
A word of caution. When I started filling the machine water gushed out the air gap. With a little experimenting with the air gap and injector valve, I determined the rubber injector valve was in backward. After reversing the vale, everything worked fine. This was a sealed package so I would have to say this came from the manufacturer wrong.
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GARY from ILLIOPOLIS, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
Injection hose developed small pin hole
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Keith from Lorena, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
This plastic siphon break comes with a metallic clamp and gasket. It is used with many washing machines.
Replacing your Maytag Washer Siphon Break Connector Kit
Customer Repair Stories
water leaking from machine during spin cycle
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Franz from Woodcrest, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Small puddle of water on floor after water drains out.
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James from Lakewood, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
This is a water inlet valve which is used in washing machines. The valve controls and monitors the flow of water into the washer. It has a multi-mount bracket and outlet adaptor. The tools needed for this repair are: a 5/16 nut driver, 1/4 nut driver, and a small flat blade screwdriver. If cold water does not flow into washer, or the washing machine will not fill with hot water, replacing the valve can be the solution. To gain access to the water valve, locate the back of the washer and remove the hot and cold hoses, as well as the whole assembly. Next, remove the four wires and loosen up the clamp. After removing the old valve, replace it with the new one and reconnect the wires and hose. Remember to disconnect the washer from the power source before starting this project.
Replacing your Maytag Washer Water Inlet Valve
Customer Repair Stories
washer filled with water even when OFF.
Only took maybe 30 mins.
I was impressed with your trouble shooting and inst!!!!
Thanks
wayne
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wayne from lees summit, MO
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Cold water valve only opened to a trickle
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Brian from El Cajon, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
This is a top mounting style injector sleeve.
Customer Repair Stories
Water leaking from injector
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Barb from OAK LAWN, IL
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
This kit is used on 2-belt washers. It is recommended to change the seal kit at the same time. The tub bearing kit fixes issues with leaking, loud noise, excessive shaking/moving or if your pump is not spinning. The tub bearing kit is fastened in the middle of the outer tub of your washer. The tub bearing ensures the inner tub is spinning effortlessly. If the rub bearing is faulty it might lock up and cause the washer to stop spinning. This is an OEM part that is obtained straight from the manufacturer.
Replacing your Maytag Washer Tub Bearing Kit
Customer Repair Stories
Leaking water at bottom of unit
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Alice from Antlers, OK
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers
Water leaking from the underside center of the tub. Only on the rinse cycle.
The removal of the retaining ring/nut (which is under the agitator) . After 10 + years, it was very hard to move this part and it was eventually broke it to remove it. WD40 was used but not effective (to much calicum build up). You must turn the cone shaped piece (located under the inner ... Read more tub) clock wise to get it to remove. A spanner wrench was not used to remove this. I used a punch and a tack hammer. We could not remove the old tub bearing (closest to the shaft), so we just cleaned it up with emory cloth and used the new tub seal/outer bearing. Spins great but have not been able to check the water leakage problem yet.
Caution: there are two dark colored ring (very thin) that go back on top of the rubber collar. These must be reused. These are hard to see. I pushed the old tub seal/bearing out with the end of a 2x4 (very slowly and carefully). I put the tub up on two of the 2x4's, for clearance off of the floor and used the third to knock the old bearing out. Old machine are very messy.
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Mark from King George, VA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
This hose connects the outer tub to the pump of your washing machine. It is twelve inches long and all black in color. This hose is made entirely of rubber.
Replacing your Maytag Washer Outer Tub to Pump Hose
Customer Repair Stories
Washing machine was leaking water from the bottom.
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Pedro from Portland, TX
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
I had water leaking out of the bottom of the washer when it was washing a load of clothes
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Paul from Lansdale, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
This washing machine drain pump is intended for use with automatic washers that have been manufactured since 1958. The pump itself is made of plastic, though it does come with a metallic belt pulley.
Replacing your Maytag Washer Drain Pump
Customer Repair Stories
washer wouldn't let the water spin out!
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SHARON from DETROIT, MI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Socket set
Water was not being removed from the wash tub after the spin cycle
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John from Fort Lauderdale, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
This hose clamp is used in a wide variety of household appliances. Most often it is found in washers, dishwashers, refrigerators, freezers, dehumidifiers, garbage disposals, or air conditioners. This clamp is used to securely attach a hose to another part of your appliance, which helps prevent leaks from those connections. Depending on the appliance, it can attach hoses to drain pumps, water inlet valves, pressure switches, and injector nozzles. We recommend you refer to model-specific diagrams for appropriate uses and exact placement. This hose clamp is made of metal, and is sold individually. To access and replace this part you will need a nut driver, pliers, and screwdrivers. Before you begin any repair work, make sure you have unplugged your appliance, and shut off the water supply if applicable.
Replacing your Kenmore Washer Hose Clamp
For drain hose 7/8".
Replacing your Maytag Washer Syphon Break Elbow Kit with Clamp
Customer Repair Stories
The Syphon Break Elbow was broken when the washer was moved.
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Bud from Clyde Hill, WA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I accidentally broke the syphon elbow kit moving the washing machine
Then disconnected 4 screws that hold the syphon in place, remove the syphon elbow and replace it with the new one, insert the four screws again and tighten making sure your arm is holding the elbow from the inside of the machine through the access h ... Read more ole. Then install access panel with the screws, do a test run with the machine pulled out to see if there are any leaks. Done.
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Alex from Downers Grove, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
The hose clamp is used to hold the water hose in place which will prevent the hose from leaking water. Sometimes the clamp may lose its ability to latch on, causing a leaking washer. For the installation, you will need a flat head screw driver to replace the clamp and a drill to access the screws to remove the front of the washer. Be careful if you do not have specific clamp pliers as the clamp could fly off. Once the front of the washer has been removed, take a quick look for water damage or any obvious signs of where the leak is coming from. If it is not obvious, run water to test.
Replacing your Kenmore Washer Hose Clamp
This injector sleeve bracket is white and made entirely of plastic. This is a side mounting style bracket.
Replacing your Maytag Washer Injector Sleeve Bracket - Side Mounting
This is a heat-resistant adhesive for your appliance. The heat resistance allows you to stick parts such as grate feet, gaskets, and felt seals in hot areas, such as a cooktop, without compromising the integrity of the adhesive. It is white in color, and the tube is approximately 7.5 inches long.
Customer Repair Stories
leaking front door. loose seal.
Dishwasher front still leaking
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Frank from SANTA ROSA, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
This washing machine injector hose runs from your washer's inlet to its injector. It is black and made of rubber. It is also available in an injector kit.
Customer Repair Stories
Water leek
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Ahmad from Las Cruces, NM
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
This injector tube seal is just over an inch in diameter. It is black in color and made of rubber.
This injector fill hose is nine inches long. It is black in color and made entirely of rubber.
Replacing your Maytag Washer Pump-to-Siphon Break Drain Hose
This injector tube is a little over two inches long. It it white and made of plastic.
This outer tub clamp seal is sixty-eight inches long. It is black and made of rubber.
Customer Repair Stories
Leaking near one of the seal clamps
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JIM from PINE RIVER, MN
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Clamp rusted through permitting upper & lower tub to separate
Got clamp from partselect.com in 1 day which was great.
Removed two PH screws from front cover then pulled bottom of front cover outward and down to remove.
Caution for those doing this: take a piece of 220 or 240 grit paper and sand all the edges of ... Read more the clamp. Trying to put it on without doing so will result in countless paper cuts in hands.
Before putting new clamp on be sure to use either some soap or silicon lube on the rubber V seal between upper and lover tub.
Also need to put some 1/4" to 3/8" spacers at three equally spaced places beneath the upper tub and the lower tub. If this isn't done the upper tub will drop down too far inside the lower tub and the inner lower tub, when it starts to spin, will rub on the underside of the upper tub = cause the main drive belt to smoke and tub to "freeze up"
Spacers I used were simply 3 pieces of multi strand sheathed electrical wire 3/8" so that I could bend them down at an angle and put them out once clamp was in place. Wire pieces need to be about 4-5" long.
Assemble one bolt in clamp and thread around tub in CCW direction.
Position one bolt of the clamp in right rear corner. this is important so that when tub goes out of balance, there's clearance for the clamp bolts and they don't contact the cabinet.
Make sure before threading clamp arount tub that the screw that will end up in the front left corner has a hex head on it so that you can apply some clamping "muscle" with a socket wrench.
I had trouble getting the front left screw inserted in the clamp (its only 2" long) so I used a 3" bolt to make the preliminary connection to pull the clamp semi tight. I planned ahead and got a light wire coat hanger to use as a "tie-tie" in the event that I had to remove the 3" slotted screw to revert back to the 2" hex head screw. Luckily when I removed the 3" screw I was able to quickly pop the 2" hex head back in and tighten completely.
Before putting front cover on, do one load with front cover off to make sure that upper and lower/inner tub don't rub each other.
If ok, turn power back off and put front cover back on.
Note: Would advised ordering the rubber V-seal if you are ordreing the clamp. If you buy the seal there are four bolts in the lid that let you lift the lid to work on the tub, clamp and seal MUCH more easily. Sticky part is getting water fill tube in top left rear disconnected so that new rubber v-seal can slide over tub.
Note also that in order to get to front left lid bolt that single bolt holding diaphram onto front left upright must be removed so as the let diaphram assembly drop away to access front left lid bolt. The two bolts in the rear can be accessed from the top very easily. Also need to disconnect the bleach fill tube in order to lift the lid (right side lifts up to vertical position)
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George from Fort Myers Beach, FL
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Replacing your Maytag Washer Corrugated Drain Hose
Customer Repair Stories
water would not drain in washer tub, clothes were still very wet. starting with the hose
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Leo from Seaside, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
Hose had a split in it
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Chris from Hoffman Estates, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
This inlet hose washer, also known as a high pressure inlet hose washer, is used in washing machines, refrigerators, freezers, and dishwashers. The function of this part is to create a watertight seal in the appliance. If your gasket gets dry and brittle over time it will start to crack and will lose its function. In this case, it is important to replace it. Refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer for further installation instructions and accurate guidance. As a safety precaution, remember to unplug your washer from the power source before beginning.
This kit includes both the drive belt and the pump belt which are both V-shaped. If your washer does not toss, spin, or drain water properly, this might be because one of these belts has worn or stretched out. This results in the belt losing its grip and no longer driving the pump. The pump belt is black and made of rubber. The pump belt is located between the motor and pump underneath the washer. Simply remove the belt and hook the new one around the pulley. You may need to loosen or tighten the belt to ensure it is set in place properly.
Replacing your Maytag Washer Belt Kit
Customer Repair Stories
My washer stopped draining
I tried checking the fuses, then read that the belt could be broken or worn. I checked under the hood and the belt was broken right in two. I drained the washer manually then ordered the new belt.
I was able to replace the belt in no time with no effort at all.
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Jenna from St. Louis, MO
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
Washer wouldn't spin
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Ben from Truro, AL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
Bleach dispenser hose inlet.
Customer Repair Stories
The washer was leaking
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William from North Scituate, RI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Socket set
Washing machine was leaking
Done in five minutes.
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Steven from WEslaco, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
Note: This part has been updated by the manufacturer. It may appear different but will still function the same as the original. The hose clamp is about 2 inches in diameter and made of stainless steel. A hose clamp generally attaches hoses and tubes to various equipment This part consists of a band and a screw that tightens along the slots when it is turned. This part works with washers, dishwashers, food waste disposers, and ice makers. This will need to be replaced if you notice leaking coming from the appliance.
This clamp does include the nuts and bolts to hold it together but it does not include the rubber seal. Sold separately.
Customer Repair Stories
After 29 yrs, tub top clamp broke from vibration
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David from ROCK HILL, SC
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
This syphon break gasket is just over an inch in diameter. It is black in color and made of rubber.
This inner tub clamping nut is just under three inches in diameter, and is made of metal. It has a reverse thread and screws onto the mounting stem.
This clamp is sold individually.
This transmission lip seal repair kit comes in two pieces: a red four inch long piece, and a black one inch long piece. Both pieces are made entirely of plastic. This repair kit comes with and instructions sheet and it is used for some washing machines.
Replacing your Maytag Washer Transmission Lower Lip Seal Repair Kit
Customer Repair Stories
Oil leak from lower lip seal
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Anthony from CHESANING, MI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
This center seal retaining washer is a little over an inch in diameter. It is made of metal.
This hose is almost 5 feet long and now comes with the washers for proper installation. It is used to bring water into your washer for the cycles.
This part does NOT include the Bearing.
The hose washer in this washer and screen insert kit is an inch in diameter. The insert is all blue in color and is made entirely of plastic, while the washer is all black in color and made entirely of rubber.
Customer Repair Stories
Deteriorated and clogged strainer; slow water fill.
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Richard from Jupiter, FL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers