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WWS233RBD2
WWS233RBD2 Frigidaire Washer - Overview
Sections of the WWS233RBD2
[Viewing 6 of 6]
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Drive V-Belt
PartSelect #: PS1146950
Manufacturer #: 134511600
This rubber V-style drive belt slips on the motor pulley to bring the basket to the required speed. If you notice a burning rubber smell or grinding noises coming from your washer, your washer does no...
$24.93
In Stock
Water Inlet Valve
PartSelect #: PS815509
Manufacturer #: 134190200
The water inlet valve has two ports for water to enter and controls the flow of water into a washing machine. Hot, cold, and warm water can easily enter the washer this way. If the water inlet valve i...
$127.65
In Stock
Screw-In Plastic Leveling Leg
PartSelect #: PS1152204
Manufacturer #: 134548800
This is a screw in leveling leg for your washing machine. It supports the appliance by screwing in place to create a stable and flat surface. Take note that you are able to adjust the height of your a...
$25.94
In Stock
Tub Seal Assembly
PartSelect #: PS459481
Manufacturer #: 5303279394
If you have a leaky washer, then your tub seal may be the culprit. The tub seal assembly may also be known as the washer tub seal, and is a part for your washer. The function of this piece is to make ...
$74.78
In Stock
Remote Style Pump with Motor
PartSelect #: PS417325
Manufacturer #: 131268401
Use this with either a top load or front load washer. This pump has an horizontal mount.
$253.04
In Stock
Tension Idler Pulley
PartSelect #: PS418897
Manufacturer #: 131862900
The idler pulley on your washing machine allows the drive belt to operate smoothly. If your washer is not spinning or agitating, makes too much noise, or you notice a burning smell when it is operatin...
No Longer Available
Drain Hose
PartSelect #: PS417877
Manufacturer #: 131461200
This drain hose is designed for use in your washer. The function of this part is to carry water from the drain pump to the house drain. If your washer is leaking or will not drain, you may need to rep...
$20.58
In Stock
Screw
PartSelect #: PS417463
Manufacturer #: 131302800
This is a replacement screw for your washer or dryer. The screw is approximately half an inch in length and is a Phillips-head screw. It screws in from the outside of the drum, into the vane/baffle. T...
$11.21
In Stock
Washer Lid Lock with External Safety Switch
PartSelect #: PS648775
Manufacturer #: 134101800
Mounting bracket on this part replaces old style ( You may need to drill off old bracket before mounting new lock).
No Longer Available
Agitator Drive Block
PartSelect #: PS1152574
Manufacturer #: 134418700
The agitator drive block rotates the agitator assembly in your washer. If the drive block breaks down due to wear and tear the agitator will stop working. If you notice that your washer is making loud...
$63.38
In Stock
Spin Bearing
PartSelect #: PS446536
Manufacturer #: 3204405
The spin bearing, used for your washer, is located at the bottom of the outer tub near the transmission. The spin bearing carries the transmission shaft in the drive system, therefore ensuring the sha...
$77.44
In Stock
Questions And Answers for WWS233RBD2
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Common Symptoms of the WWS233RBD2
[Viewing 8 of 8]Leaking
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Burning smell
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Will not agitate
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Will not drain
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No hot or cold water
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Spins slowly
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Noisy
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Will Not Start
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
replace broken drive belt
carefully pry up on front washer top to release plastic keeper pins,remove 2 phillips screws from beneath lower front washer panel,slightly lift upward on panel to release.remove old broken belt,push new belt beneath large tub pulley,put belt on small motor pulley,push back belt tension /idler arm,start belt on large tub pulley,turn tub p
... Read more
ulley by hand to run belt on,release tension on idler arm.replace front panel and lower top.WALAAH!!!! you are done.
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Parts Used:
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rodney from fairfield bay, AR
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
276 of 308 people
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The primary problem was that the tub seal assembly was leaking.
1. I began by removing the two screws that hold the front panel in place. I then lifted the top free of the front panel and tilted it back to get it out of the way.
2. Using my fingers, I released the tabs that connect the tub cover to the tub. It took some effort to remove the cap("Mechanism") over the bolt connecting the ag ... Read more itator to the agitator drive block because I didn't want to break the tab. Once removed, I removed the bolt and the agitator. I then removed the two bolts that clamp the Trunnion to the agitator shaft.
3. It took a little more effort to remove the tub because of corrosion, however, by rocking the tub back and forth I was able to work it free and remove it. I then removed the bolts connecting the Trunnion to the tub. It took a hammer to remove the Trunnion from the tub, once again because of corrosion.
4. After removing the tub, the seal assembly was next and it was easy to remove. I cleaned the agitator shaft with steel wool before beginning the reassembly to remove the corrosion. Before installing the new seal, I lubricated the agitator shaft and the inside of the seal with a silicone grease that is normally used for water faucets. The seal installed easily although care was required to insure that the seal did not twist out of place when sliding it down the agitator shaft.
5. The rest of the reassembly went easily. Since my old filter on the bottom of the tub was clogged, I replaced it with a new one. It took a little time to get every tab on the filter aligned properly so that it could be rotated into place, but it went easily. Everything else reassembled with no problems.
6. It took considerable time to figure out how to replace the drive belt idler arm assembly because I could not figure out how to remove the pin that the idler arm pivots on. I finally reviewed the parts list on-line again and determined that there is a small C-clip that holds it together. Once I knew that. I was able to see the clip and remove it. From that point on, it was very easy to remove the old assembly and reinstall the new one. If I had to do it over again, I would have changed the sleeve at the same time that I changed the idler assembly because the assembly still wobbles on the pin more than I would like. However, it works fine so I won't worry about it until other repairs are needed.
The parts that I ordered from Parts Select were exact matches for the parts that I removed. They were in stock and were shipped the next business day. I would rate the repair as very easy.
2. Using my fingers, I released the tabs that connect the tub cover to the tub. It took some effort to remove the cap("Mechanism") over the bolt connecting the ag ... Read more itator to the agitator drive block because I didn't want to break the tab. Once removed, I removed the bolt and the agitator. I then removed the two bolts that clamp the Trunnion to the agitator shaft.
3. It took a little more effort to remove the tub because of corrosion, however, by rocking the tub back and forth I was able to work it free and remove it. I then removed the bolts connecting the Trunnion to the tub. It took a hammer to remove the Trunnion from the tub, once again because of corrosion.
4. After removing the tub, the seal assembly was next and it was easy to remove. I cleaned the agitator shaft with steel wool before beginning the reassembly to remove the corrosion. Before installing the new seal, I lubricated the agitator shaft and the inside of the seal with a silicone grease that is normally used for water faucets. The seal installed easily although care was required to insure that the seal did not twist out of place when sliding it down the agitator shaft.
5. The rest of the reassembly went easily. Since my old filter on the bottom of the tub was clogged, I replaced it with a new one. It took a little time to get every tab on the filter aligned properly so that it could be rotated into place, but it went easily. Everything else reassembled with no problems.
6. It took considerable time to figure out how to replace the drive belt idler arm assembly because I could not figure out how to remove the pin that the idler arm pivots on. I finally reviewed the parts list on-line again and determined that there is a small C-clip that holds it together. Once I knew that. I was able to see the clip and remove it. From that point on, it was very easy to remove the old assembly and reinstall the new one. If I had to do it over again, I would have changed the sleeve at the same time that I changed the idler assembly because the assembly still wobbles on the pin more than I would like. However, it works fine so I won't worry about it until other repairs are needed.
The parts that I ordered from Parts Select were exact matches for the parts that I removed. They were in stock and were shipped the next business day. I would rate the repair as very easy.
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Parts Used:
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Rick from Walkerton, IN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
253 of 318 people
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Washer Continued To Fill To Point Of Overflow
First I removed the top panel held by four screws at rear of panel, pulling the panel foward and up. Then disconnected the power and water connections. Then I removed the two screws holding the flow valve to the washer rear panel,pulled the valve foward ,removed the two electric connectors, pinched the water clamp with pliers and remo
... Read more
ved the water connection to the valve. Then replaced with the new valve followed the above steps in reverse order, finishing up by re placing the water connections and power. Then checked fo proper replacenent and leaks before replacing top panel.
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Parts Used:
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alvaro from east hampton, NY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
86 of 96 people
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