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RMC305PDQ1
RMC305PDQ1 Whirlpool Microwave Oven Combo - Overview
Sections of the RMC305PDQ1
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Manuals & Care Guides for RMC305PDQ1
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Inner Door Glass
PartSelect #: PS11742543
Manufacturer #: WP4449259
This inner door glass is a heat resistant part that fits into a stove, oven, wall oven, cooktop, or range as the inner glass panel of the appliance door. The glass panel allows you to see the items be...
$112.25
In Stock
Microwave Turntable Tray
PartSelect #: PS12728515
Manufacturer #: W11373838
This genuine OEM microwave turntable tray is a circular plate made of glass and has a diameter of approximately 16 inches. It rotates food in your microwave oven, so that your food cooks evenly. It is...
$57.88
In Stock
Bake Element
PartSelect #: PS11750369
Manufacturer #: WPW10207397
The bake element is located at the bottom of the oven and gives off heat in order to bake evenly. If you notice that the element is not heating up or is not cooking evenly, it could be because it is b...
$70.38
In Stock
Oven Rack
PartSelect #: PS11749669
Manufacturer #: WPW10179152
This oven rack is chrome in color and is approximately 24.76 inches wide by 15.78 inches deep. If your old oven rack is damaged, you should consider replacing it. Many of our customers have determined...
$84.88
In Stock
Screw - 10-16 x 1
PartSelect #: PS11741409
Manufacturer #: WP3387230
This screw is sold individually.
$7.95
In Stock
Touch-Up Paint - White
PartSelect #: PS385132
Manufacturer #: 72017
This touch-up paint can be used on a wide variety of household appliances. It is most often used on washers, dryer, refrigerators, dishwashers, ranges, freezers, trash compactors, or microwaves. It is...
$8.00
In Stock
2 Piece Broiler Pan
PartSelect #: PS971245
Manufacturer #: 4396923
This is cookware designed for use in your range or oven. It is a two-piece dish that is used to grill or cook food while the broil function is on, meaning it can withstand high temperatures. This set ...
$37.51
In Stock
Door Hinge
PartSelect #: PS11742641
Manufacturer #: WP4455525
This is a door hinge for the oven door on your range. It allows the door of your unit to open and close without much effort. This hinge will also allow the door to stay open at different angles and ho...
$60.52
In Stock
Microwave Halogen Bulb
PartSelect #: PS11754756
Manufacturer #: WPW10440740
This is a small light bulb.
$32.11
In Stock
Broil Element
PartSelect #: PS11747301
Manufacturer #: WP9760767
This broil element is found on the roof of the oven.
$98.14
In Stock
GASKET-CAVITY, 30, BLK
PartSelect #: PS17216131
Manufacturer #: W11675844
This part is the replacement door gasket for your oven. It is made of gray rubber and is sold individually. The door gasket runs along the circumference of the oven door and creates a seal that insula...
$31.64
In Stock
Door Switch - 250V
PartSelect #: PS2338920
Manufacturer #: W10211972
This door switch (Primary and Secondary) keeps the microwave from running when the door is open.
NOTE: Two switches required. Sold individually.
$44.72
In Stock
Questions And Answers for RMC305PDQ1
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Common Symptoms of the RMC305PDQ1
[Viewing 11 of 11]Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when baking
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Tray won’t turn
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No heat
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Oven not heating evenly
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Door won’t close
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Door not closing properly
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Won’t turn on
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Will Not Start
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Noisy
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Broke the glass panel inside the oven door -- dropped a baking dish on the glass!
Easily removed the door from the oven by releasing clips attached to the door hinge -- very nicely engineered. Removed about 6 philips head screws to allow the door assembly to be taken apart for access to the glass. Lifted out the broken glass, cleaned the inside of the door, installed the new glass, reassembled the door (a two minute
... Read more
project), and reattached the door to the oven. Cleaning the inside of the door took longer than the actual repair!
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Parts Used:
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Robert from Wildwood, MO
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
231 of 286 people
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I broke the Bake Element while cleaning the oven.
I removed the two screws that held the bake element in place. Next I removed the Bake Element. I had to unscrew the oven to go behind it because when one piece off of the element broke, it slide back behind the oven. I pushed the wire back thru the piece holes, connected the Element, and pushed the element with the wires back through the
... Read more
holes. I rescrewed the element in place and the oven. PartSelect helped me to save this year's Christmas.
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Parts Used:
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Daniel from Cheraw, SC
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
116 of 134 people
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My microwave began suddenly making a loud humming noise while cooking food.
My microwave began suddenly making a loud harsh humming noise while cooking food. I did not let it go on long enough to know if it cooked the food or not. I did some Internet research and learned that it was likely the Magnetron. The test for this was to run the microwave for at least a minute on the lowest power setting and see if the no
... Read more
ise cycled on and off. It did, so I (actually, my wife) ordered the part from partselect.com using the model number. I was successful in replacing the part, and we are back to microwave popcorn and quick defrost for a price that was less than a service call, however, it was time consuming, required a large work area, and access to 5 out of 6 sides of the unit. So proceed at your own discretion
Caution:
The first thing in every set of repair instructions was to discharge (short-circuit) the capacitor, as it may store large (as in lethal) amounts of electricity even when it is not connected to a power source. I had never done this, but found these instructions:
“Discharging your microwave's capacitor is absolutely essential in preventing injury to your microwave, your tools, and yourself. A capacitor stores a large amount of electricity even when your microwave is unplugged, and it must be discharged before beginning any repair.
A capacitor is discharged by creating a short circuit between each of the two capacitor terminals, and between each terminal and the chassis. The chassis is the metal mounting (bare metal surface) of the capacitor. Read these directions thoroughly before you proceed.
With your microwave unit unplugged, touch the blade of a well insulated screwdriver to one terminal. Gently slide the screwdriver forward until it reaches the other terminal, holding it there for a few seconds. Be aware that this often results in a loud and startling 'POP'.
Repeat this procedure in order to create a short circuit between each capacitor terminal and the chassis (bare metal mounting plate surface). This same method can be applied to a capacitor having three, and not two, terminals.”
I had not run my microwave in over a week, and then while my part was shipping, left my microwave 'unplugged' for more than two days, and my capacitor apparently discharged itself, although I did go through the above procedure carefully and completely - just in case.
Step-By-Step:
1. You must remove your microwave from the cabinets - it is impossible to repair otherwise. This is best accomplished with 2 strong people - my wife and I made it work, but wished for another guy.
a. While supporting the microwave, remove the two screws coming down through the cabinet above.
b. Lift the rear of the microwave as much as possible, then tilt the front down - there is a clip high on the left side, as well as the hinge/clips on the bottom.
c. If you do not lift it off the wall all at once, you may have to lift the rear even farther to remove it from the hinge/clips on the bottom.
Important Note: Always beware of the microwave door, if it is bent or broken and cannot retain a seal, the microwave not function as a safety feature to keep from releasing microwaves.
2. Remove the vent cover on the top/front of the microwave - be careful, it's plastic.
3. Remove the vent cover and light panel on the bottom of the microwave - this is several screws and some simple wire clips.
4. Remove the "shell" (top and sides) of the microwave - this is several more screws on the back. Make sure to remove the plate that is holding the cord in place on the top.
5. Remove the interface panel by the screws on the top (which had been hidden by the vent cover) - the wires can remain attached, just slide it aside.
6. Remove the metal cover on the right side at the rear; this will expose the Magnetron and the Capacitor. Remember to immediately test and discharge the capacitor!
7. After you discharge the capacitor, remove the other cover plate and the support bracket - in case you haven't noticed, this is a time and space consuming operation.
8. You
Caution:
The first thing in every set of repair instructions was to discharge (short-circuit) the capacitor, as it may store large (as in lethal) amounts of electricity even when it is not connected to a power source. I had never done this, but found these instructions:
“Discharging your microwave's capacitor is absolutely essential in preventing injury to your microwave, your tools, and yourself. A capacitor stores a large amount of electricity even when your microwave is unplugged, and it must be discharged before beginning any repair.
A capacitor is discharged by creating a short circuit between each of the two capacitor terminals, and between each terminal and the chassis. The chassis is the metal mounting (bare metal surface) of the capacitor. Read these directions thoroughly before you proceed.
With your microwave unit unplugged, touch the blade of a well insulated screwdriver to one terminal. Gently slide the screwdriver forward until it reaches the other terminal, holding it there for a few seconds. Be aware that this often results in a loud and startling 'POP'.
Repeat this procedure in order to create a short circuit between each capacitor terminal and the chassis (bare metal mounting plate surface). This same method can be applied to a capacitor having three, and not two, terminals.”
I had not run my microwave in over a week, and then while my part was shipping, left my microwave 'unplugged' for more than two days, and my capacitor apparently discharged itself, although I did go through the above procedure carefully and completely - just in case.
Step-By-Step:
1. You must remove your microwave from the cabinets - it is impossible to repair otherwise. This is best accomplished with 2 strong people - my wife and I made it work, but wished for another guy.
a. While supporting the microwave, remove the two screws coming down through the cabinet above.
b. Lift the rear of the microwave as much as possible, then tilt the front down - there is a clip high on the left side, as well as the hinge/clips on the bottom.
c. If you do not lift it off the wall all at once, you may have to lift the rear even farther to remove it from the hinge/clips on the bottom.
Important Note: Always beware of the microwave door, if it is bent or broken and cannot retain a seal, the microwave not function as a safety feature to keep from releasing microwaves.
2. Remove the vent cover on the top/front of the microwave - be careful, it's plastic.
3. Remove the vent cover and light panel on the bottom of the microwave - this is several screws and some simple wire clips.
4. Remove the "shell" (top and sides) of the microwave - this is several more screws on the back. Make sure to remove the plate that is holding the cord in place on the top.
5. Remove the interface panel by the screws on the top (which had been hidden by the vent cover) - the wires can remain attached, just slide it aside.
6. Remove the metal cover on the right side at the rear; this will expose the Magnetron and the Capacitor. Remember to immediately test and discharge the capacitor!
7. After you discharge the capacitor, remove the other cover plate and the support bracket - in case you haven't noticed, this is a time and space consuming operation.
8. You
Read less
Parts Used:
-
Lindsay from Nampa, ID
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
126 of 252 people
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