This is a drip bowl, and it is used in conjunction with your range. The function of this part is to sit underneath your stove top burner element. This will allow the bowl to catch any spills that fall...
$13.66
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The drip bowl is found under the 6-inch burner on your range. This square chrome stove top drip pan is intended for use with electric ranges. It has a 2-inch inner hole diameter and 7-inch outer diame...
$8.39
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The tools you will need to replace the surface burner receptacle kit on your range include a Phillips screw driver, and a pair of wire strippers. Before doing this repair, make sure to disconnect your...
$13.91
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This is a grease filter, and it works with your range/stove/oven. This part is chrome-colored and measures 16.5 inches long by 9 inches wide. It is made of metal and is intended for use with downdraft...
$48.41
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This surface burner switch, also known as an infinite switch, controls and regulates the heat output of the burners on a stovetop. The user simply adjusts the knob on the user interface panel, which i...
$90.92
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This 8 inch surface burner with reinforced delta frame carries 2100 watts and 240 volts. It has five turns and is compatible with many electric ranges. Its center medallion is all black in color.
$44.59
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This is a radiant surface element with limiter, and it works in conjunction with your range. The function of this part is to give heat to the surface directly above it, on cooking area stove top.This ...
$220.32
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Sold individually. This surface burner knob is a little under two inches in diameter. It is a black knob with gray numbering indicating the temperature level of the surface burner. Made entirely of pl...
$32.02
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This is a delta frame surface unit, also known as coil element, for a stove, range, or oven. It is a 6-inch surface burner with a reinforced delta frame that carries 1250 watts and 240 volts. The burn...
$50.86
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Turned off the power at the breaker box, cut the wires approximately 5 inches from the bad receptacle and removed it after removing one screw. Stripped back the wires about 1/2 inch and attached the new wires with the ceramic wire nuts provided and secured the receptacle back in place with the new screw provided in the kit. My sister
... Read more's husband wanted to scrap the whole range but I repaired it with $14.00 worth of parts. The element is working great now. Whenever I need appliance parts again I'll use partselect.com.
Turned the breaker off, I removed 2 screws securing the range top to the range, opened the top and secured it in the up position, Removed the 2 screws securing the element ,one at a time I swapped the quick connectors from the old element to the new and repeated the process in reverse. I save over $100.00 in labor, plus most companies get
... Read more you for a trip charge. It was easy!!
1. Killed power and removed the regulator's knob, noted the position of the old control. 2. Took off the cover for the center vent and loosened the two screw holding the housing in place--the screws didn't have to come out completely as it is a U-shaped friction hold. 3. Unscrewed the two screws holding the old control switch in
... Read more place--lifted the housing enough to get at the old switch and carefully pulled it loose--it was a front burner so the control switch was about as far back as it could be but still wasn't that hard to get at. 4. Turned the new switch to orient the wire connectors, then, using a needle-nose pliers, removed each friction connector, one at a time, and fitted them on the new switch (note: one of the wires fitted best if it went under as opposed to around the base of the new switch). 5. Replaced the control back through the housing and screwed it in place, making sure the orientation of the control matched the way it looked originally. 6. Slide the housing back over the two screws and tightened, replace vent. 7. Replaced the knob and turned on the power.
(The above took me about twice as long to write as it did to make the repair and I write professionally but am not a professional electrician.)
Also, I bought a second control switch because, given the age of the unit, I'm sure another one will go. The second one will assure that it won't happen :-).