The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the sw...
This is a package of twelve Phillips-head screws. They can be used as replacement screws in refrigerators, ice makers, or freezers. Be sure to check that your appliance model is compatible with these ...
This is the replacement vegetable drawer side rail for the left side of your refrigerator. It is made of white plastic and is approximately 18 inches long, and 6 inches wide. The slide rail supports t...
This refrigerator door handle mounting screw connects your refrigerator door to the handle. The part is less than 1 inch in length, and can come in both silver and gold colors. When installing this sc...
This kit features a 5-blade plastic evaporator fan blade that rotates CCW and measures 4.5-inches in diameter and has a 3/8-inch-tall shaft. This kit also has a metal compression ring that secures the...
This slide cover or slide rail is a genuine OEM replacement part for your refrigerator. This part is made of white plastic. To install it, simply remove the glass shelf, remove the current slide rail ...
This is a replacement pack of sheet metal screws for your refrigerator. These are Phillips-head screws, and are approximately ¾ of an inch long. This package contains 12 screws. These screws are typic...
This is a package of twelve replacement screws. They are designed as replacement screws for refrigerators. Be sure to check that your appliance model is compatible with these screws. The screws are ap...
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c
... Read moreatch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
Removed the back cover of freezer to acess the coil. Turned the timer to defrost and checked the voltage across the heater. Didn't have any. Stayed on the common side of heater and measured on both sides of thermostat and one side didn't have any voltage. Shorted the thermostat wires together and heater started working.
Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.
