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CSK20GABEAD
CSK20GABEAD Hotpoint Refrigerator - Overview
Sections of the CSK20GABEAD
[Viewing 4 of 4]
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Bottom Hinge Assembly
PartSelect #: PS290199
Manufacturer #: WR13X10020
Comes with both cam risers. This hinge kit is suitable for the bottom of either the freezer door or the refrigerator door of some refrigerators.
$47.33
In Stock
Light Switch
PartSelect #: PS8758429
Manufacturer #: WR23X10725
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the sw...
$8.56
In Stock
Hinge Cam Riser
PartSelect #: PS284596
Manufacturer #: WR02X10140
This part helps with the closing of the door and helps keep it in position.
$11.59
In Stock
Package of 12 Screws
PartSelect #: PS312573
Manufacturer #: WZ4X244D
This is a package of twelve Phillips-head screws. They can be used as replacement screws in refrigerators, ice makers, or freezers. Be sure to check that your appliance model is compatible with these ...
No Longer Available
Door Hinge Shim
PartSelect #: PS298522
Manufacturer #: WR2X7491
This is the replacement door hinge shim, or riser cam shim for your refrigerator. It is made of metal and is approximately 2 inches in length, and 1 inch in width. Your refrigerator will have a door h...
$16.87
On Order
Defrost Thermostat
PartSelect #: PS303471
Manufacturer #: WR50X122
This clip on refrigerator defrost thermostat clips on to your refrigerator's evaporator. It will cut out at 60 degrees Fahrenheit and kick back in when the temperature drops to 32 degrees Fahrenheit.
$51.25
In Stock
Screw
PartSelect #: PS271689
Manufacturer #: WH2X930
This screw is sold individually.
$12.22
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Blade Kit
PartSelect #: PS304684
Manufacturer #: WR60X114
This kit features a 5-blade plastic evaporator fan blade that rotates CCW and measures 4.5-inches in diameter and has a 3/8-inch-tall shaft. This kit also has a metal compression ring that secures the...
$26.55
In Stock
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side
PartSelect #: PS306735
Manufacturer #: WR72X10010
This part is the replacement drawer slide rail for your refrigerator. It is made of white plastic and is approximately 16 inches long and 1.5 inches wide. The crisper draw will slide in and out along ...
No Longer Available
Screw
PartSelect #: PS283488
Manufacturer #: WR01X10038
This screw is sold individually. Size 8 -18 ab fltr 5/8.
No Longer Available
Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side
PartSelect #: PS306734
Manufacturer #: WR72X10009
This drawer track supports the right hand side of the sliding drawer.
No Longer Available
Fill Tube Grommet
PartSelect #: PS299055
Manufacturer #: WR2X8474
This fill tube grommet is used on the icemaker.
$31.95
In Stock
Questions And Answers for CSK20GABEAD
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Common Symptoms of the CSK20GABEAD
[Viewing 13 of 13]Light not working
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Door won’t open or close
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Fridge too warm
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Noisy
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Leaking
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Door Sweating
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Freezer section too warm
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Freezer not defrosting
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Fridge runs too long
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Clicking sound
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Freezer too cold
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Frost buildup
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Ice maker not making ice
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sticking Light Switch
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c
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atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
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Parts Used:
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Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
116 of 144 people
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My wife said, "the refrigerator door won't close".
Our refrigerator is a double door unit with ice and water in the left door. The right door was the one with the problem. It was 5:15 AM when the problem occured. I could see that the door was out of alighnment and had dropped down - preventing it from closing. I lifted the door and closed it. I wrote down the model number and found a
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detailed drawing of the appliance on the web site "partselect.com". When the hing earrived I compared it to the broken one. I removed all the food stored on the door, put several pieces of wood under the door to shim it to the same height as the adjacent door. I then removed two bolts from the refrigerator with a 1/4" socket set. I put the shim from the old hing aside for later. I removed two bolts from the door with the same socket -Note a metal tab had to be bent silghtly so the wrench could go on the head of the bolt- I removed the plastic cam and made note of its orientation and that of the shim above it on the door. I put the shim and new cam in place on the door and installed the 2 bolts. I inserted the pin of the new hing into the hole in the cam (I had just mounted) on the door. I put the shim (the one put aside earlyer) behind the hing and replaced the two bolts. I held the shim and hing up against the door as I tightened the two bolts. When I was satisfied that the bolts were tight I removed the wooden blocks that were holding the door up so the door was supported by the new bottom hing assembly. The door now opperates perfectly and the refrigerator was not taken out of service for the repair. Total time including cleanup was a little over 15 minutes.
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Parts Used:
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Gregory from Zephyrhills, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Socket set
54 of 58 people
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The refrigerator side of the side by side refrigerator stopped regulating its temperature causing cans and bottles to burst.
I removed the back panel held in place by 5 screws. I located the thermostat and disconnected it from the wire connection to another part. Due to the connection requirement, I had to cut the wires from the original part and splice the connector with wires to the new part. After securing the spliced wires and covering in electrical tape
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, I replaced the panel and all screws.
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Parts Used:
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Jonathan from Cary, NC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
36 of 39 people
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