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CCX20GKB
CCX20GKB General Electric Refrigerator - Overview
Sections of the CCX20GKB
[Viewing 7 of 7]
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Light Switch
PartSelect #: PS8758429
Manufacturer #: WR23X10725
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the sw...
$8.56
In Stock
Defrost Timer - 120V 60Hz
PartSelect #: PS310869
Manufacturer #: WR9X502
This defrost timer will cycle for 25 minutes after every six hours of run time. The timer itself is made of plastic, and its terminals are bent, the leads are internal, and the label is orange. If you...
$93.29
In Stock
Power Cord
PartSelect #: PS759476
Manufacturer #: WR23X10300
This heavy-duty cord has a three-pronged plug (2 electrical, 1 grounding). The power cord supplies power to your refrigerator, allowing it to keep the contents inside cool. There could be an issue wit...
$29.54
In Stock
Door Shelf Retainer Bar End Cap
PartSelect #: PS298308
Manufacturer #: WR2X6934
This retainer bar end cap can be used for either the left or right hand side.
$23.05
In Stock
R134 DRIER
PartSelect #: PS12727537
Manufacturer #: WR86X25269
The filter dryer filters refrigerant that travels through the sealed system of the refrigerator.
$62.27
In Stock
Questions And Answers for CCX20GKB
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Common Symptoms of the CCX20GKB
[Viewing 10 of 10]Light not working
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Fridge too warm
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Freezer section too warm
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Freezer not defrosting
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Will Not Start
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Leaking
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Fridge runs too long
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Noisy
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Freezer too cold
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sticking Light Switch
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c
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atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
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Parts Used:
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Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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refrigerator was not cooling but the freezer worked fine.
My husband put on the defrost timer. At first I thought the part was not going to fix the problem. After about 5 hours my refrigerator was still warm. I went to work and when I got home that evening my refrigerator was cooling and down to 28 degrees. So if you replace this part wait at least 12-24 hours. Give it time to stablize.
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My husband says it has to go through its cycle. It works on a 24 hour timer. My refrigerator is working fine and this has saved me alot of money. My husband says, once you put on the timer you may have to use a flat screwdriver and turn the small dial clockwise one click to start it. He removed the kick grill and replaced the part. Dont forget to shut breaker off to replace this part. Turn power back on and start the timer. We are so happy that we now have a working refrigerator.
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Parts Used:
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Wanda from Cabins, WV
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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display showed dE
popped off front grille, removed 2 screws for bracket, then had to remove one screw for timer. unplugged old timer, reversed procedure, all works.
Parts Used:
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Nancy from Hamburg, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
74 of 116 people
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